Broome!

Arrived in Broome midday, went for a quick swim at Cable Beach. This beach is the main beach in town, but actually about a 5km drive away from the downtown area. It is really beautiful though; white sand, clear turquoise water of the Indian Ocean. This was the first time either of us had been in the Indian! After our swim, we drove back to town and walked around the main shopping area, Chinatown. It was the site of the initial settlement of Chinese and Japanese pearl divers. Also checked out the historic Japanese graveyard of divers, most of whom died of the bends before diving techniques were improved. Sufficiently caffeinated we drove around town a bit trying to find an area where we could sleep for free. Unable to find anything we went back to the beach to watch the picturesque sunset. Ended up staying in the beach parking lot for lack of a better option.

Southern Kimberly

After a brief stop at the natural China Wall of quartz outside the town of Halls Creek, we went through Fitzroy Crossing to Geikie Gorge. As the only 2WD accessible part of the Kimberly, we expected it to be pretty cool. The Kimberly is the general name for the area of northeast Western Australia, renown for its environmental beauty. While the gorge might have been better seen from a boat, the only walking trail was hot and sandy and didn't provide great views of the gorge. We made the most trying to figure out where the crocodiles were that could come and eat us. Stopped at another rest stop for the night.

On the road into WA

Last night we camped in the northern most corner of Gregory National Park, near the town of Timber Creek. The campsite was right along the Victoria River, famous for its abundance of crocodiles, both fresh water and salt. We went to look at it this morning and noticed many places where they could have crawled out of the water towards our site. Luckily we discovered all this on our way out of town, so to speak.

After a brief stop at the Gregory Tree, a large boab inscribed with the dates an explorer named Gregory set up camp at the site, we were on our way west towards the border. Upon entering Western Australia, we had to stop at a manned quarantine check point and show the nice officers that we had no fruit or veggies in the car. They are also very concerned with people accidentially spreading cane toads into WA, so I understand the formality of it all, it just seemed a bit strange when there are no other people or buildings around for hundreds of kilometers.

Once in WA we stopped in Kununurra to fill up on gas before deciding to take a small detour up to Wyndham because the guidebooks told us there was a crocodile farm there and we still haven't seen any crocs. After driving about 60km to the town, which turned out to be quite run-down and depressing, we finally found the croc farm. Unfortunately, the woman working there was closing up early for the day, at noon when they were supposed to be open until one. Even this came as a shock as the books also told us it was open until 4 during the dry season. However, after a look at the place (also run-down and depressing like the town) we figured that no one probably goes there and they can close up whenever they feel like. At least there was a 20 meter plaster croc in town. An unfortunate detour, but we should get a chance to see some crocs in Broome. Camped at a reststop tonight, but its nice enough. Its intended as an overnight stop becuase there aren't really any caravan parks or anything along this section of the road.

Katherine Gorge

Last night was full of activity.  Wallabies surrounded our car all night, chomping away very loudly on brittle grass and leaves.  Headed out to see the Katherine Gorge via a hike and some lookouts.  At the first lookout and the closest we were a bit disappointed.  Could not see very far down the gorge and what we did see was not all that impressive.  We continued on about 4 km further at Pats Lookout, where we were rewarded with a grand view of the gorge.  Unfortunately that was the extent of our exploration of the area.  Katherine Gorge is definitely a place to view by the water as the tracks that let you see even the second and third gorge are easily two day hikes.

still in Litchfield

Woke up and went for a dip at the pool below Wangi Falls. The water was not nearly as clear as the pools yesterday and the bottom was muddy in places, making it look like prime crocodile territory. Though it is highly unlikely there were actually saltwater crocs (the dangerous ones) there during the dry season, it is quite probable freshwater ones were swimming around us. The mangroves surrounding the pool looked like particularly nice habitat.

On our way out of the park we stopped to check out the magnetic termite mounds. These fin-like structures are built by the termites along a north-south axis in order to use the sun's energy to most effectively heat and cool them. They build them above ground instead of living underground because it floods during the wet season. Some of the normal anthills are enormous, too!

From Litchfield we drove down to Katherine, famous for its Gorge of the same name. For lack of a better option, we decided to camp at the resort just below the first of thirteen gorges. We'll see how much we can see tomorrow!

Litchfield National Park

We left Darwin and after some quick pit-stops and headed for Litchfield National Park. Though Kakadu is more popular, we heard from a number of backpackers that Litchfield is just as good and easier to get around without a 4WD. Upon entering the park we first stopped at Buley Rockhole, a number of cascading step pools. Some were deep enough to jump off of the rocks into, so we spent a bit of time exploring here before heading further down the road to Florence Falls. After a quick view from above, we headed down to the pool below and enjoyed some nice swimming. The water was nice and cold on a hot day and we were assured there were no crocodiles inhabiting the pool.

We decided to camp for the night at Wangi Falls, on the western edge of the park, and got there just in time to grab one of the last campsites. Had a nice night though the wallabies kept us awake a bit jumping around everywhere.

Edith Falls to Darwin!

After a bit of a sleep-in, we went to check out the main Edith Falls. The falls turned out to be a little bit of a disappointment after the one yesterday, but the pool was much larger and probably better for families and the like. However, there was also this lovely sign warning us of fresh and salt water crocs. Once we packed up the car, we decided to drive all the way in to Darwin this morning (a little over 300km).

We got in and went to go visit Pete at the Travelers' Auto Barn here; try and get some advice on the car and places to go in Darwin. After walking up and down Mitchell St, pretty much the 'main drag', we decided to stay at Melaluca on Mitchell. The place has a really nice pool/deck, a small but active bar, and nice enough rooms. Since all the hostels go for pretty much the same rate ($30 per person per night) we decided to go for the one that seemed the nicest. After some dinner, we're gonna check out the town, hopefully it treats us well!

Daly Waters to Edith Falls

Had a low key night drinking and playing pool at Daly Waters Pub before packing up and heading north this morning.  We stopped off at Mataranka Homestead; where the book We of the Never Never is set.  Never heard of it myself and after poking around the replicated homestead, it seems there is good reason.  Something about a woman making it in the bush.  Yawn.  The real reason for the for our visit was to take a dip in the thermal pool.  The pool is filled from Rainbow spring with lukewarm water (34C) at a rate of 30.5 million liters per day.  Citation not known, just trust me.

The springs were a welcome relief after a bit of driving.  To prevent erosion and increase ease of access for the oldies the edges of the pool have been cemented.  Not the most natural of places but pleasant enough and free.

From there we headed north to Katherine, after a brief stop over for supplies we set up camp at Leliyn (Edith Falls).  We took a short hike to an awesome little water fall and swimming hole.  Along the way I managed to destroy a flip flop and walked most of it bare foot.  A little unnerving to swim in as it is very deep and we are in crocodile territory, but we made it back in one piece.

Devil's Marbles to Daly Waters

In the morning, we got out of the car before it could heat up too much. Had some quick breakfast before exploring the rocks a bit more. On the way out we saw the two most famous ones that look so impossibly balanced. The whole place was a lot nicer once all of the people with their huge caravans pulled out. After that we continued north through Tennant Creek and Three Waters, stopping only for gas.

We reached Daly Waters around 2 or 3, clearly too early to stop, but we wanted to check out this historic bush pub. The walls and ceiling beams are all covered in memorabilia, including a large number of ID's, international money, and articles of clothing. After a beer or two and an envious glance at the pool, we knew we had to stay the night. The pub is known for being a stopping point for backpackers and the like, so we were hoping it would fill up with something other than the families and grey-nomads we found.

Alice to Devil's Marbles

This morning we left Toddys in Alice after doing our best to use up as much internet as possible. We made a short trip to get some coffee and other errands, figured out how to transfer some money home, and all of sudden it was after noon! We wanted to make it to the Devil's Marbles tonight, over 400km away, so we knew it was gonna be a stretch. Luckily, we forgot that the speed limit is 130 in NT, and people seem to go a lot faster in the uninhabited areas.

Devil's Marbles are a collection of large boulders that seem impossibly balanced on others, but were in fact formed by the weathering of the rocks left by a lava flow. We managed to get here by about 4:30, checked out the rocks a bit, and then headed over to the campground. Boy were we surprised when we came around the corner to find the place packed FULL of caravans! We managed to find a spot mostly out of the road, had dinner, and then watched a dingo wander around the camp looking for scraps. Though no one fed him, he seemed very brazen and was going really close to the caravans and people's food.

Blog Neglect

Sorry we haven't updated the blog in so long. Things in Melbourne were pretty good, though a bit monotonous. We worked a bunch and saved up money (when we weren't going out with our roommates) so now we can travel!

Today we reached Alice Springs and its the first time we've had internet since we left, hence: updates!

Enjoy!

A Big Red Rock!

This morning we decided to sleep in a little bit before heading in to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. We stopped in at the Cultural Centre to learn about the Aboriginal stories related to the rock and had a quick coffee before going to see Uluru itself. Unfortunately, between these two things we missed our chance to climb to the summit as it was closed due to high winds, but had been open earlier. Instead we decided to do the 10km walk around the base, which was good, but it seemed as if all of the coolest sites were sacred so we weren't allowed to take pictures there. Once finished we headed to the Resort to sort out some camping and relex a little before going back to the park to see Uluru at sunset.

Encountering Wildlife

Left Riba's early and hit the road towards Uluru (Ayers Rock). Once we crossed the border into the Northern Territory, the speed limit became 130 km/hr, making the journey considerably quicker than expected. We stopped at a couple of rest stops/road houses to fill up on LPG and get some snacks, as well as kill some time.

The only place to stay at Uluru is the Ayers Rock Resort, with exorbitant prices even for camping, so we planned to stay about 100km away from the park. Before we got there we stopped for a quick view of Mt Connor, often confused for Uluru. A little bit further on we reached Curtin Springs, a roadhouse that offers free unpowered camping. $3 fee for showers, but all in all, a pretty good deal. As we pulled in, we were treated to a unique sight: an emu was chasing a mid-sized dog around the camp!

It turned out that this emu was in fact very friendly, probably used to being fed, as he walked around to all the campers and then took a little nap next to our car. Though it was a bit windy, we decided to have a campfire and use up the last of our wood we got in the Flinders. Once we went to bed a huge wind/dust storm picked up, luckily we had just put the fire out or things could have gotten ugly.

Coober Pedy

Went to the Old Timers Mine this morning. It was informative but outdated, especially the creepy mannequins demonstrating mining technique. Matt was excited to be a blue hat again, but otherwise the mine was worth the $10 each. It was pretty good for Coober Pedy, which is a pretty derelict town these days. Spent the rest of the day washing out more mud from the car, and getting it banged out of the front wheels. Stayed at Riba's Underground Caravan Park, but above ground. Nice enough place, good kitchen but could use some more stove tops.

Sleeping in a Cave

Today, we left Port Augusta after some quick errands to fix up the car. We drove all the way to Coober Pedy in a straight shot, 5 1/2 hours, though Falkor was acting up a bit because of all the mud still caked to the undercarriage.

Staying tonight at Radeka Downunder Underground Motel; pretty cool to be sleeping in a cave! Found out there's not much night life in Coober Pedy, but we managed to find a good time at the nice hotel bar, including some intense games of air hockey.

Unintentional Off-Roading

 

After a bit of sunshine in the morning, we decided to try to get back down to Leigh Creek (only 80km dirt road) instead of continuing north towards Coober Pedy (over 300km dirt). We thought this way would be passable, if difficult, as the road was mostly gravel with a few paved sections at the stream crossings. Also, the warning signs said it was still open:

The first few kilometers weren't that bad, but then things started to get a bit hairy. The car started sliding out a bit, but Matt was able to maintain control by maneuvering the car as if driving in snow. However, once we reached a section that was completely flooded, we stopped to determine which way to go, and promptly got stuck in the mud. After a short tow from some friendly guys in big 4X4 trucks, we were on our way again. There were definitely some other spots where we should have gotten stuck, but simply motored through them because we had to. In retrospect, the road was definitely not intended for a two-wheel drive vehicle, but Falkor, our Ford Falcon Futura managed to make it.

It took about 2 hours to get through those 80 kilometers, and its definitely not something we plan on doing again any time soon. The rest of the day we drove back down to Port Augusta, where we decided to stay at Shoreline Caravan Park after giving Falkor an extensive bath.

Flinders Ranges to Maree

Left the Flinders Ranges today and on our way out we decided to check out the self-guided geology tour.  We made it part way only to find the road ahead was partially flooded and not passable for Falkor.  We turned back and headed north towards Leigh Creek and Marree.  The last few km into Marree it started raining consistently and we were unable to continue. We were forced to camped in the parking lot of the Marree Hotel for the night as all the rooms were booked.  It seems people with 4WD radioed ahead for their rooms.

The hotel was nothing to speak of, everyone staying there was over 50 except for the tour guides.  Pretty depressing place to get stuck considering we are unsure if we can get out tomorrow.  The road ahead and behind us are both sloppy wet.

We headed back towards Wilpena Pound to go on a return hike to St Mary Peak.  The hike was a rediciulous 15 km hike, part of which traveled up the washes on the mountian side.  The trail was nonexistent in many places and the markers were infrequent.  We managed to get off trail for a small bit but found our way back.  Some other hikers wandered completely the wrong way but still made to the the summit, albiet a lot later.  The views were breathtaking.  Absolutely amazing.  I can see why some people think this area is better then Ayers Rock.  Camped for the night at Dingy Dell in the flat lands, no one else in sight.

Port Augusta to Wilpena Pound

 

Left Mt Remarkable and stopped in port Augusta to stock up on food and booze.  Coninued on north towards the Flinders Range where we stopped at a few Aboriginal 'art gallerys' read: cave paintings.  It was very neat to see some of the simplistic drawings for the mere fact that they had most likely been drawn before bibilical times.  We arrived in Wilpena and found that our camping pass did not apply to their private camp ground so we took an 18km drive on a slightly dodgy dirt road and camped at Bunyeroo Gorge.  Saw an incredible number of kangaroos on the way to the site.  Two other groups were camped there but that didn't spoil the isolation to much. There was an amazing amount of stars to been seen.

 

Mount Remarkable - Hidden Gorge

 

We hiked the Hidden Gorge at Mount Remarkable today.  For a 17 km hike it wasn't very difficult.  There were some very pretty landscape and we got our first glimpses of red Australian soil.  Decided to stay another night at Mt Remarkable and milk the two-month holiday camping pass we purchased for $58 AUD.  Not a bad deal as it gets you entry and camping to all of the South Australian national parks.

Adelaide and Mt Remarkable

After checking out of Cannon St, we walked around the Adelaide CBD (central business district) for a bit, checking out the shopping areas, buying a few things we needed, and a few we didn't. Unfortunately, there's not much else to do in the city especially in the winter. During the summer, I'm sure the parks surrounding the city are very nice. Then we went on a tour of the Haigh's Chocolate Factory, which was somewhat interesting and very delicious! My favorite was the dark chocolate almonds they gave us at the end of the tour.

Leaving Adelaide was fine, though its weird when the main highway is actually a two lane road with stoplights. We decided to stay at Mt Remarkable State Park for the night and go on a hike in the morning. We arrived around 5, paid the exorbitant entrance/camping fee ($24) and set up camp. This was just the right time to see some emus, and then a nice sunset.

Creepy Koalas

This morning we treated ourselves to McDonalds brekkie then headed on towards Adelaide.

Though I thought there would be stuff to see between Ararat and Adelaide, but there really wasn't, mostly just farms. And lots of rain. And a giant creepy koala. We got into Adelaide around 4, and decided to stay at Cannon St Backpackers on recommendation of the guidebooks. Bad choice.

While it might be nice in the summer, in August there is no one there and the place is really dirty and weird. We tried to spend as little time as possible there and had a few drinks at a pub before heading back for some light dinner (brie and crackers). The best thing about the place is probably the free breakfast, including make your own omelette!

On the Road!

We left Melbourne on the third of August. After a long morning of errands, we finally got out of town around two in the afternoon. Obviously, this was not ideal, but we didn't really have any other option. We ended up making it to a campsite outside of Ararat, Victoria just as it was getting dark.

The site was called Green Lake Reserve (I think), and though we could clearly see the lake, it was hard to make out where the campsites actually were. We ended up parking near this other mobile home and the toilets, in the driest spot we could find. We could hear lots of frogs that night, though we didn't actually see any.